Shein’s reality check: From USD 100 billion dream to Hong Kong discount listing
Shein, the China-founded fast fashion giant, has gone public in Hong Kong at a valuation of approximately USD 27 billion. This valuation is a significant decrease from its 2022 peak of USD 100 billion, following unsuccessful attempts to list in New York and London. The listing on September 1 comes amid deteriorating earnings, increased competition from Temu, and mounting regulatory scrutiny in its key Western markets. Shein raised around HKD 13.6 billion (USD 1.7 billion) by pricing its shares at HKD 48.56. The company moved its headquarters to Singapore in 2021, and its founder, Xu Yangtian, acquired Singaporean citizenship.
Shein's Hong Kong listing at a reduced USD 27 billion valuation, down 75% from its 2022 peak, reflects a challenging environment for the Singapore-headquartered company. The move to Hong Kong, after failed attempts in New York and London, highlights the increasing difficulty for Chinese-founded companies to access Western capital markets due to political and regulatory pressures. This situation could make Hong Kong a more prominent listing venue for other mainland Chinese enterprises facing similar hurdles, as suggested by Mike Leung of Wocom Securities. The listing injects capital and draws attention to the Hong Kong market, but Shein's operational performance remains a concern for investors like Leung. The company's Q1 revenue growth of just 1% globally, coupled with a 14% decline in US revenue and a negative net margin of minus 1.1%, indicates significant headwinds. Shein's strategy to expand its marketplace and acquire troubled brands has been slow to gain traction, with its supply-chain-as-a-service offering not yet lifting profits. The ongoing investigations by the US Federal Trade Commission and CFIUS, alongside accusations of forced labor, add further complexity. For Asian tech and startup professionals, the key takeaway is the evolving landscape for large, globally ambitious companies with Chinese roots, where market access and regulatory compliance in Western markets are becoming critical determinants of valuation and growth.
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